15 Best Places to Sail in the World in 2026

The British Virgin Islands are the textbook first charter. Islands sit within sight of one another across the Sir Francis Drake Channel, which acts as a buffer against the Atlantic, and the winter trade winds blow a steady 15-20 knots from the east and north-east. Currents are weak and the tidal range is only about 30 cm, so you can spend the week navigating by eye and still never feel stretched.

The sightseeing starts early. On Virgin Gorda, The Baths is a jumble of giant granite boulders that form tunnels, arches and sunlit pools you can scramble and swim through. Nearby Prickly Pear Island is a nature reserve with shallow sand and good holding for the anchor, and Sandy Cay has a short trail around a tiny uninhabited beach. Further south, Norman Island has sea caves at Treasure Point that you reach by dinghy from The Bight, and snorkelers head to the wreck of the RMS Rhone, which sank in 1867 and now lies in the BVI's only marine park. Cooper Island sits at the edge of Wreck Alley, so divers and snorkelers have more wrecks within easy reach. If you have a spare day, the trip about 15 nautical miles north from Virgin Gorda to Anegada rewards you with flamingos, iguanas and the long sand of Cow Wreck Beach; here you anchor inside the reef markers and take care entering.

On land you can walk to the Bubbly Pool, drink your way through the Callwood Rum Distillery, laze on Cane Garden Bay, or look for the sculptures of the BVI Art Reef. Gorda Sound has plenty of watersports for the more energetic crew members.

Eating here means island Caribbean cooking: conch fritters, curried goat and roti, plus grilled Anegada lobster, which has its own Lobster Festival in late November. The signature drink is the Painkiller, a mix of fruit juices, rum and nutmeg, invented at the Soggy Dollar Bar on Jost Van Dyke, where sailors still wade ashore with their cash in a dry bag. Mooring balls and anchorages are common, so lunch stops are as easy as dinner.

Plan your timing carefully. December to April is the ideal window, with November to May also good, while many bases close in September and October and July and August are hot. You will need a sailing resume to charter a boat, but no licence or certificate is required.

Croatia's Dalmatian coast packs UNESCO-grade history into a sailing area where the next harbour is rarely more than a few hours away. Most weeks start in Split, where Diocletian's Palace is not a museum but a living part of the old town, with cafes and shops built into Roman walls. From there, a short hop takes you to Šolta, where quiet coves such as Balkun and Tatinja give you a first night at anchor, or to the harbour village of Milna.

Hvar is the island most people want next. You can anchor or pick up a buoy off the Pakleni Islands for swimming, then walk Hvar town's walls up to the Španjola Fortress for the harbour view. Vis, once a closed military island, now feels pleasantly untouched; it is also where the vugava grape is grown and where an ancient bronze Artemis head was found. Korčula, often called "Little Dubrovnik", has a Land Gate, a house said to be Marco Polo's and the sandy vineyard coast around Lumbarda. Mljet adds a national park of salt lakes with a monastery on a small island in the middle, and the week usually ends in Dubrovnik, where you can walk the Stradun, look inside the Rector's Palace, climb Lovrijenac and Bokar fortresses, find the Franciscan pharmacy (founded in 1317) and ride the cable car up Mount Srđ.

Ashore, dinner is the second highlight. Look for peka, meat or octopus slow-cooked under an iron bell in the embers, octopus salad, black risotto coloured with cuttlefish ink, and ćevapi served with ajvar relish. Lamb and goat dishes pair well with a glass of the local grk wine, and on Hvar you will find the Buza Bar, a well-known drinking spot.

Wind is a daily character here. The maestral blows from the north-west in the afternoon and is the sailor's friend; the bura comes from the north-east, dry and gusty, and can keep you in port; the jugo from the south-east is moist, with long waves. Marina fees generally run €30-130 a night, buoys €40-80, and there is a tourist tax of about €1. If you are planning to cross the Kornati archipelago, expect park fees of €100-200 or more, and a one-way charter carries a surcharge.

Greece is really two sailing destinations. The Ionian on the west coast is the gentle option: green islands, sheltered channels and short hops that suit families and first-timers. The Cyclades in the Aegean are the iconic postcard islands, but they come with the famous meltemi, a northerly wind of force 5-7, often 30 knots or more, that peaks in July and August. September is excellent in both regions.

In the Ionian, a typical week touches Corfu, where the old town has the arcaded Liston, two forts, the Campiello quarter and the Maitland Rotunda, with a berth at Mandraki marina. South of there you find Fiscardo on Kefalonia, a pretty harbour, Vathy on Ithaca, tiny Kastos, the white-sand shallows of Antipaxos, Meganisi, Kalamos and Lefkada. Ashore, order a Kefalonian meat pie at Tzivras or pastitsada at Pomo d'Oro, and if you have a half day to spare, visit the Gentilini winery to taste its Robola and Tsaoussi wines.

The Cyclades are for experienced crews who like a stiffer breeze. A common route leaves Lavrion and crosses to Kea, then continues to Ermoupoli on Syros, and on to Mykonos and the nearby ruins of Delos. Santorini's caldera is the showstopper, with Ios and Ornos Bay as stepping stones, and Naoussa harbour is a neat anchorage on Paros. The sources I used for the Cyclades say little about the local table beyond generic island staples such as cheeses, capers, honey and ouzo, so expect simple taverna meals and plan ahead on provisioning.

Wind decides everything in the Aegean. Skippers often plan short morning legs to be in port before the afternoon gusts and keep a flexible day to wait out a strong meltemi. In the Ionian, summer thermal winds are gentler and more predictable, which is why it is the common choice for beginners.

For budgeting, a 42-foot boat in high season runs around €4,000-5,500 per week. If you want a skipper, add €1,200-1,800 per week; marinas cost about €20-70 per night, and security deposits sit at roughly €1,500-3,500.

French Polynesia is a bucket-list charter, and the classic base is Raiatea in the Society Islands. From there, an eight-day loop reaches Tahaa, Bora Bora and back, mostly inside a single protected lagoon that wraps both Raiatea and Tahaa. That makes it more accessible than the distance suggests, though the passes through the reef need care and are best crossed in good light.

On Tahaa you can visit the Champon black pearl farm to learn how Tahitian pearls are grown, stop by Fare Vanira to see vanilla, and visit the island's rum distillery. The snorkeling includes the Mahaea site, known for sharks and rays. In Bora Bora, you might pick up a mooring at the Bora Bora Yacht Club for about 4,000 XPF, then walk Vaitape to see the old World War II cannons. Nearby, the Swimming Pool snorkel spot and the Arii Motu Grill are popular, and the Toopua islet, together with passes such as Paipai and Miri Miri, give variety. Back on Raiatea, the temple sites are worth a visit before you hand the boat back.

Food here has a Polynesian base, with a local buffet and dance evening such as the one at Ficus. Crewed charters are common, with a skipper at around €1,400-1,750 per week and a hostess at €1,250-1,600.

Boats are mostly catamarans. A Catana 55 on this route was listed at €5,335-11,785 per week depending on the season. Other listings show Raiatea bareboat from about US$2,400 with a median of around US$8,000. The best months are May to October, when trade winds are steadier and the air is drier. You will want solid navigation skills, since coral heads and passes are real hazards.

A good way to use the eight days is to treat each island as a different chapter: spend one afternoon learning about pearls and vanilla on Tahaa, give Bora Bora two nights so you can snorkel the Swimming Pool in the morning and walk to the Vaitape cannons later, then use the last evening on Raiatea to see the temple sites before checking the boat in. Because the passes are the main hazard, plan to cross them in daylight and in settled weather, and ask your charter base for the latest local advice at the briefing.

The Whitsundays offer protected cruising inside the Great Barrier Reef, and the sailing is as relaxed as the scenery is dramatic. The prevailing south-east trades blow about Beaufort 4 with occasional bullets, tides range 3-4 metres, and the local custom is to be anchored by 4 pm. No formal qualifications are required to charter here, which is a major reason it is so popular with first-timers.

The signature stop is Whitehaven Beach, the star of the islands. Walk to the Hill Inlet lookout, ideally around mid-tide, to see sand and water swirl together, and keep an eye out for turtles. Tongue Bay is the other classic, a short walk from the beach. For the best view in the islands, tackle the Passage Peak hike (3.2 miles). Snorkelers will love the Hook Island Pinnacles and Manta Ray Bay, where mantas can be seen from May to September. You can also follow the Ngaro sculpture trail, and see cave art that is around 9,000 years old at Nara Inlet, which also makes a sheltered overnight anchorage. Cid Harbour, Butterfly Bay and Cateran Bay are further favourites.

Food is a lighter affair, because most meals are cooked on board. Still, the Bommie restaurant is known for treats such as kangaroo tartare and Moreton Bay bug, a local slipper lobster that is sweet and rich. Because the sources list no other restaurants, plan to provision the boat yourself and make the most of the galley.

There are two things to remember. Stinger season starts in late October, so plan accordingly. And season guidance differs between sources: one says April to October is best, while a local operator lists October to December as its peak, so check conditions against your own priorities and confirm the dates with your charter company before you book flights.

A sensible week blends beach days with reef days: start with Whitehaven and Hill Inlet while the tide suits, spend a night in Nara Inlet for the cave art, then use the remaining days for the Pinnacles and Manta Ray Bay. Because tides are large, check the tide tables before you pick an anchorage, and keep the anchor-by-4-pm habit so you are settled before the light fades.

The Strait of Bonifacio between northern Sardinia and southern Corsica is one of the Mediterranean's most scenic sailing grounds, and a week here mixes protected island parks with historic harbour towns. The usual base is on the Sardinian side, and the first big attraction is the La Maddalena archipelago national park, a cluster of granite islands with turquoise coves reachable in short hops.

On Caprera you can visit Garibaldi's house, and the famous Cala Coticcio beach can only be reached on a guided hike. Spargi's Cala Corsara is a favourite swimming anchorage, while Budelli's pink beach is closed to landing; you can still pick up a buoy and snorkel nearby. Santa Maria and Porto Pozzo offer calmer overnight stops. Across the strait, Bonifacio's citadel sits dramatically on the white cliff above the harbour, and the Lavezzi islands are a short sail away for more swimming. Cavallo is another stop, and for a bit of glamour you can finish in Porto Cervo, which hosts a J-class regatta for those who like to watch racing yachts at close quarters.

Food is a strong part of this trip. In Sardinia, try culurgiones (filled pasta parcels), fregola (small toasted pasta, often served with seafood), a tagliere board of pecorino cheese with local wine, and fresh grilled fish. The Cubone restaurant is one name that crops up in guides for a relaxed meal ashore.

Wind is the main thing to understand. The mistral can blow hard in the strait, and typical conditions are quoted as 6-15 knots by one operator (12 Knots) or 8-20 knots by another (Océans Évasion), so allow for days when a short hop is wiser than a long one. The best months are June to mid-September. Because you will cross between Italy and France, an ICC is the licence to bring if you are chartering a bareboat.

Both countries have a high season with busy anchorages, so arrive early in the afternoon at the more famous bays and keep a Plan B for each night. Many crews build in one flexible day each week precisely to wait out a windier spell, then use it on a nearby island rather than sitting in port.

Lofoten is sailing under mountains that rise straight from the sea, with fishing villages tucked into the bays. Charter boats typically start from Svolvær, and the season runs from June to August, when the midnight sun means you can sail or hike at almost any hour. Water temperatures are cold, as low as under 10°C around Skrova, so swimming is for the brave.

Reine is the village everyone photographs, and the hike up Reinebringen is 1,976 steps to a view over the whole bay. Nusfjord is known for its Karoline waffles and village bakery. Henningsvær has the famous football pitch built on a rocky outcrop, and the Klatrekaféen cafe is known for its buns. Skrova is a quiet island with a harbour, Værøy is a remote outpost further south-west, and at the end of the chain Å is home to the Stockfish Museum. Nearby Sakrisøy is where Anita's serves a fish burger. History fans can visit the Lofotr Viking Museum, while beach lovers head to Haukland and Uttakleiv. After a cold day, a sauna followed by an Arctic dip is a ritual locals will happily recommend. Some crews also extend their trip to Senja.

The food story here is cod. Skrei, the migratory cod, arrives around Christmas, and the fish is air-dried on racks for about three months to make stockfish, which is then soaked for about a week before cooking. At Å, the Brygga restaurant serves cod soup that visitors often rate highly, and fish burgers, fresh cod and bakery treats make up most of the other highlights.

This is a destination for crews with some experience of cold-water pilotage and changeable weather, rather than total beginners. A three-cabin boat starts from around €2,200 per week, and if you want to learn rather than skipper, sail-training weeks are offered at about £1,750.

Plan days around the light as much as the wind: with the midnight sun you can sail a long leg in the evening, then still walk to a beach such as Haukland or Uttakleiv afterwards.

The Beagle Channel is not a casual charter. It is expedition-grade sailing between Argentina and Chile, with glaciers that reach the water, wildlife on every rock and weather that can change within the hour. Most trips begin in Ushuaia, which is windy and gusty, and the season runs from November to March.

Close to Ushuaia, the Les Eclaireurs lighthouse is the postcard landmark, reachable by a short sail out of the harbour. On land, Laguna Esmeralda is a hiking destination, the Martial and Vinciguerra glaciers sit above town, and Tierra del Fuego National Park offers forest and coastline walks. Estancia Harberton is another stop on the route, and the Museo del Presidio in Ushuaia tells the story of the old prison. Further along the channel, you reach Glacier Alley, with the Pia Glacier beyond. Wulaia Bay is a historic landing, and the ultimate goal for some is Cape Horn.

The wildlife is a highlight in its own right: dolphins, sea lions and Magellanic penguins can all be seen along the route. Back in Ushuaia, king crab is the signature dish, along with wild salmon and an Argentine asado of grilled meat, and Alma Yaghan is one of the restaurants guides point to for a memorable dinner before or after the voyage.

Paperwork matters here. A zarpe, the formal clearance document, is needed to enter Chilean waters, and most visitors will want a local skipper or an expedition operator. Small-ship expedition cruises start from about US$6,495 per person, while private yacht trips are quoted individually.

Think of this as a trip to be planned months ahead with a specialist, with extra time built into the schedule for weather days and with a crew that is comfortable with strong gusts and cold water.

A realistic week splits into shore days and sailing days. Spend the first day around Ushuaia, visiting the Museo del Presidio and walking in Tierra del Fuego National Park, then head out past Les Eclaireurs to look for sea lions and penguins. Later days are about the glaciers and the quiet bays, so pack warm layers, waterproofs and a flexible attitude to the daily plan.

Scotland's west coast is sailing with character: fast tides, quickly changing weather, deep sea lochs and a cheerful pub or distillery at the end of most passages. Charter boats are mostly monohulls, since there are no charter catamarans in the area, and the usual start is Oban or Largs.

A classic route from Oban begins gently at Loch Spelve, where you may see goats and can find mussels, and continues up the Sound of Mull to Tobermory, where the distillery and pubs make a lively stop. Calgary Bay is a good stop, and from there you can reach Staffa and Fingal's Cave, where puffins are possible. Erraid and Tinkers Hole are sheltered, atmospheric anchorages near Iona, and Kerrera, just off Oban, has Gylen Castle and plenty of seals. Further afield, Islay is famous for its whiskies, Jura is home to the Corryvreckan whirlpool, and Iona is an easy detour.

Wildlife lovers can look out for seals, otters, dolphins, porpoises, eagles and puffins, and the seafood is a reason in itself to come: langoustines, scallops and oysters are all on offer along the coast.

The key skill is tidal planning. Tides run fast around Mull, so passages need to be timed to carry the boat rather than fight it. A skipper at around £150 per day can be hired if the crew wants local knowledge, and 3-cabin yachts from Largs start at £2,990 per week with 4-cabin boats from £3,545. Summer is peak, with April to November as the wider season.

The reward for good planning is huge: empty anchorages, long evenings and the feeling of having sailed somewhere genuinely wild.

Shore days are easy to fill. Tobermory rewards a wander between the distillery and the pubs, Kerrera is a short walk to Gylen Castle with seals in the bay, and a boat trip to Staffa gives you Fingal's Cave and the chance of puffins. Loch Spelve is a gentle first night where you can look for goats along the shore and mussels in the water, which is exactly the kind of low-stress start a tidal cruising ground needs. Islay's distilleries and the Corryvreckan off Jura are worth building a longer trip around if time allows.

Vava'u is a Pacific island group made for relaxed cruising, with short hops between coral-fringed islands and almost no crowds. The base is Neiafu, a harbour town, and the sailing season runs from May to October, because cyclones can threaten from November to April. A week is the minimum for a charter, and ten days is recommended if you want to see everything without rushing.

Start with the view from Mount Talau, a short climb above Neiafu. By boat, Swallows Cave is a large cavern where you can swim among small fish, and Mariner's Cave is entered through a short underwater swim, a thrill best attempted with a guide. Port Mourelle is a sheltered anchorage, and Coral Gardens offers snorkeling over healthy reef. The Saturday fish market in Neiafu opens between 6 and 8 am and is worth an early start. From July to October, humpback whales visit these waters, and many operators offer chances to see them.

Tongan food is built around feasts. An umu is a traditional underground oven meal, and kava nights are a social evening ritual. Ota ika is a local fish dish you will see on menus. In Neiafu, restaurants such as Bellavista, the Basque Tavern and Mango are named by cruisers as good places to eat.

Navigation here is by eye through reef-strewn waters, so some confidence with reading the water and using a chart plotter is needed. One older listing quoted about US$2,670 for seven nights for two people, so treat it as a guide and check current rates.

Because it is remote, plan to stock up and carry spares, and allow a bit of slack in the schedule so that a rainy day does not become a stressful one.

A typical day is a short morning sail, a swim stop at a cave or coral garden, and an evening at anchor, with a visit to Neiafu's restaurants and fish market whenever you pass back through the base. That rhythm is what makes ten days feel better than seven in Vava'u: the distances are short, but the best moments are the unhurried ones.

The Bay of Islands in New Zealand's far north has 144 islands, sheltered anchorages and some of the country's richest history. The sailing season runs from November to April, with the peak in December to February, when water temperatures sit around 18-22°C. Boats operate all year, but the price tiers change with the seasons, so shoulder months can be good value.

Sightseeing is a mix of nature and history. The Hole in the Rock, is the best-known landmark, and the town of Russell is a pleasant stop for a harbourside walk. Ashore at Waitangi, the Treaty Grounds tell the story of New Zealand's founding agreement between Maori and the British Crown, and Haruru Falls is another landmark worth a visit. Walkers can take on the Cape Brett Track, while divers and snorkelers can explore shipwrecks in the bay. The star attraction for many visitors is the wildlife: more than 500 bottlenose dolphins live in the bay, and they often come to play at the bow.

The local food is built around the sea. Te Rawhiti oysters are a regional favourite, and snapper, kingfish and tuna are the catches you are most likely to put on the barbecue or eat in a waterfront restaurant. For a cultural meal, a hangi, the traditional Maori feast cooked in an earth oven, is the experience to look out for.

Charter rates for a 34-foot boat are quoted around NZ$420-570 per day, and a bond of about NZ$1,000 is typical. Some guides suggest that skippers should have at least ten days of sea time and a Yachting NZ Level 2 qualification, so check requirements with your charter company before booking.

Because the area is made up of many short hops, it is a good choice for crews who want a mix of sailing, walking and cultural stops. A week gives time for the Hole in the Rock, an afternoon at Russell, a visit to Waitangi, and a few quiet nights at anchor among the islands.

Phang Nga Bay is one of the most photogenic cruising grounds in Asia, with sheer limestone karsts rising from calm green water, caves, mangroves and hidden lagoons known as hongs. It is also one of the better-value places to charter, with a skipper costing about €1,050 per week and a cook about €770 per week.

The famous landmark is James Bond Island, but the real joy is in the quieter corners. The Phanak caves and the Koh Hong lagoon can be explored by dinghy or kayak, and Koh Roi is another scenic stop. Further south, Phi Phi has more dramatic scenery, and Maya Bay is best visited in the evening when the day-trip crowds have left. Railay is known for rock climbing, and the Similan Islands make a fine extension, though they cannot be reached in the wet season.

The food is a big part of the appeal. Southern Thai dishes you may see include mee hokkien, por pia, kanom jeen, hor mok talay and o taw. You may also come across tao sor, oh aew and kiean, which are further local dishes worth looking for.

Wind follows the monsoons. From November to April, the north-east monsoon brings force 2-5 winds and the best sailing. From May to October, the south-west monsoon can reach force 6 and brings rain, often for one to two hours in the late afternoon, so plan to be anchored by then. Because winter is the peak, book early if you want a catamaran for that season.

Prices vary by boat type. A monohull ranges from about €1,540 to €6,100 per week, while many catamarans run about €3,430-8,120. Because the bay is protected and distances are short, it suits beginners and intermediate crews, with the added reassurance of a professional skipper at a very modest price compared with most other destinations in this guide.

The San Blas archipelago, officially Guna Yala, is made up of more than 370 islands, many of them tiny palm-covered cays ringed with coral. It is home to the indigenous Guna people, which is why a trip here feels so different from a typical charter.

The highlights are the anchorages themselves. The Holandes Cays are a classic cluster, the Swimming Pool is a sandy shallow where boats gather, and Coco Banderas, Isla Perro and Chichime are popular stops, with a small bar at Chichime. On shore, visiting a Guna community is the real attraction, and you can buy molas, the handmade appliqué textiles that are the region's famous craft. Visitors should respect local rules: tourists are not allowed to scuba dive or fish, since those resources belong to the Guna.

The food is simple and fresh. Red snapper with coconut rice is the most common meal, you can drink a Coco Loco straight from a coconut, and Guna fishermen sell grilled lobster to visiting boats.

The best season is December to April, when constant north and east trade winds make sailing reliable. Navigation is by eye, so charts, a good lookout and an experienced skipper matter more here than almost anywhere else in this guide. Entry fees have been reported at $20 per person plus $20 per vessel per month, but the figure comes from an older Noonsite entry, so confirm it before you travel.

Most visitors choose a crewed yacht, and one example is priced around US$600-800 per day. A trip here suits crews who value solitude and cultural encounters over nightlife, and it rewards a slow pace: swim in the morning, visit a village in the afternoon and cook fish on board in the evening.

Before you go, remember that you are a guest in Guna territory. Ask before photographing people, carry small notes for buying molas and fresh produce, and respect the no-scuba and no-fishing rule that applies to visitors. Boats gather at the Swimming Pool and Holandes Cays, so arrive early in the day if you want a quieter anchorage.

Palau's Rock Islands are a UNESCO-listed maze of 445 limestone islands and 52 marine lakes, scattered across a sheltered lagoon in the western Pacific. It is one of the most beautiful snorkeling destinations in this guide, and most visitors explore it on a crewed yacht from the Malakal area near Koror, where facilities are concentrated.

The biggest draw is Jellyfish Lake, where you can snorkel among jellyfish; a permit is required, with one blog quoting $100 per person including Rock Islands access, or $50 for the Rock Islands alone, so check current rates. Other highlights include the Milky Way lagoon, Ngermeaus, and the snorkeling sites known as Rose Garden and Paradise. Back in Koror, there is a night market and a few museums for a rainy afternoon.

Palauan cooking features fresh seafood: sashimi, crab, suckling pig, taro and tropical fruit all appear on local menus. A night market is a good place to sample these without committing to a full restaurant meal.

The dry season, December to April, is the best time to sail; the wet season runs from June to November and carries a typhoon risk. Most visitors explore on a crewed yacht. Fees for visiting yachts are reported by Noonsite to be very high, and quotes are custom, so budget carefully and request a detailed breakdown from your operator.

With so much protected water, a trip here is as much about snorkeling stops and quiet lunch anchorages as long sailing legs. Keep the schedule loose, start each day early and give yourself time at the lakes and lagoons, which are the reason you came.

A balanced week mixes the lakes and lagoons with time in Koror. Do the Jellyfish Lake permit in advance, schedule the Milky Way lagoon and Rose Garden snorkeling for calm mornings, and keep the evenings for the Koror night market, where suckling pig, crab and sashimi make an easy dinner. Between the Rock Islands' 445 islands and 52 marine lakes there is enough variety that even a second week would not repeat itself.

Raja Ampat, in Indonesia's West Papua province, is famous for having some of the richest marine life on the planet. Because of the distances and the strong currents, most people explore it aboard a traditional phinisi sailing liveaboard with a crew, usually departing from Sorong, rather than a bareboat.

The classic stops include Waisai, the regional capital, and Pianemo, where a viewing deck gives you the island-dotted vista and you can jump from cliffs into the water. Wayag is the iconic karst-island scene, Misool is known for its reefs, and Manta Ridge is a dive and snorkel spot where mantas gather. Between swims, you can walk through villages to meet local families and look for birds of paradise.

Meals on a liveaboard are prepared by the onboard cook, and local dishes often appear on the menu: papeda, a sago porridge, is the regional staple, yellow fish soup is a fragrant favourite, and grilled fish with sambal is a typical dinner.

The best season is October to April; from mid-June to mid-September the monsoon makes conditions less comfortable. Currents are strong, which is great for marine life but means you should leave the navigating to the crew. Liveaboards cost about US$1,500-6,000 per trip depending on the boat and length, and conservation permits are added on top, roughly US$83-255 depending on the operator.

Plan your trip with a reputable operator and ask exactly what the price and permit include. For divers and snorkelers, this is the destination that makes everything else in the tropics look quiet by comparison.

A typical itinerary alternates a morning swim or snorkel with a walk ashore. At Pianemo you climb to the viewing deck and jump from the cliffs, at Wayag you take in the karst scenery from the water, and at Misool and Manta Ridge you spend your time in the water. Evenings are for the cook's fish soup, and for watching the light fade from the deck of the phinisi.