The mist that clings to the Dhauladhar range doesn't just obscure the peaks, it hides stories. In McLeod Ganj, a hill station often defined by its colonial nostalgia and Tibetan spirituality, every cobblestone and cedar tree seems to hum with a legend.
To visit here is not merely to sightsee, but to step into a living narrative where demon kings battle serpent gods, stained glass glows without light, and the hills themselves are believed to be the resting place of Shiva.
Here are the best places to visit in McLeod Ganj, told through the stories that define them.
1. Bhagsunag Temple and Waterfall
Before McLeod Ganj was Little Lhasa, it was the stage for a divine feud. The Bhagsunag Temple, an ancient shrine about 2 kilometers from the main square, owes its existence to a mythological war.
Folklore tells of King Bhagsu, a ruler from the plains of Rajasthan, who ventured into the hills to find water for his drought-stricken kingdom. He found the sacred Nag Dal (Lake of the Snake God) and stole its water in a magical vessel.
The Snake God (Nag Devta), enraged by this theft, challenged the King to a duel. During the battle, the vessel broke, and the water spilled, birthing the majestic Bhagsunag Waterfall. Defeated, King Bhagsu begged for forgiveness. The Nag Devta granted it, decreeing that this place would forever be known by both their names—Bhagsu-Nag.
Today, pilgrims take a dip in the chilly, man made pool of the temple, believing the water still carries the curative powers of the Snake God.
2. Tsuglagkhang Complex
In the heart of the town lies the Tsuglagkhang Complex, the official residence of the 14th Dalai Lama. While modern in structure, it is the custodian of ancient Tibetan customs.
If you visit in the afternoon, you may witness the Namgyal Monks in the courtyard engaging in Cham, sacred debates. This is not a quiet meditation but a dynamic, physical tradition where monks clap their hands loudly to emphasize a point of logic, stomping their feet to crush ignorance.
Inside the main temple sits a three meter high gilded statue of the Shakyamuni Buddha. But flanked beside him are statues of Avalokitesvara and Padmasambhava, deities who, according to Tibetan myth, are not just idols but living presences that guided the Dalai Lama safely across the Himalayas during his escape from Tibet in 1959.
3. St. John in the Wilderness
Nestled amidst deodar forests between McLeod Ganj and Forsyth Ganj, this Neo-Gothic church is a relic of the British Raj. However, it is the whispers of the supernatural that draw the curious.
The church is the final resting place of Lord Elgin, a British Viceroy. But local legends speak of a spectral presence in the graveyard. More fascinating is the myth of the stained glass windows depicting John the Baptist.
It is said that the Belgian glass used here possesses a magical quality. It appears to glow from within at twilight, even when there is no light source behind it. Locals often warn against walking the path alone after dark, citing the sounds of horse hooves from a bygone era.
4. Dal Lake
Far smaller than its Kashmiri namesake, this Dal Lake is shrouded in the mysticism of the Mahabharata and local Shaivite lore.
The lake is considered a natural lungta (wind horse) prayer flag spot, but its deeper legend connects to the Pandavas. It is said the Pandava brothers built the small Shiva temple on its banks during their exile.
The most enduring custom here concerns the fish. Locals believe the fish in Dal Lake are sacred and cursed. To catch or eat one is to invite immediate calamity upon one's family. You will often see monks and locals feeding the fish puffed rice, but never a fishing rod in sight.
5. Triund
Triund is the crown jewel of trekking here, but the trail has birthed a modern legend centered around the now-iconic Shiva Cafe.
The cafe, a stone structure perched near the waterfall on the way to Triund, has a cult following. The story goes that the cafe was founded after a traveler had a vivid dream of Shiva, the Destroyer, calling him to this specific rock face.
Today, the trek to Triund is seen by many not just as a hike, but as a pilgrimage to the abode of Shiva, who is believed to meditate on the snow clad Kailash peak visible from the top.
6. Dharamkot
Just above McLeod Ganj lies Dharamkot, a village that has transformed from a quiet Gaddi settlement to Little Israel.
The transformation of Dharamkot is a legend of cultural fusion. It is the only place in the Himalayas where you are as likely to hear the blowing of the Shofar (a ram's horn used in Jewish rituals) as the blowing of a Tibetan conch shell.
The village has adopted the Jewish tradition of Rosh Hashanah with as much fervor as local festivals, creating a unique hybrid culture where local Gaddi landlords speak fluent Hebrew.
7. Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts (TIPA)
To see folklore in motion, one must visit TIPA. This institute preserves the Ache Lhamo (Tibetan Opera), a tradition dating back to the 14th century.
Keep an eye out for the Black Hat dancers. Their heavy, ornate costumes and wide-brimmed black hats are not just for show. They retell the legend of Lhalung Pelgyi Dorje, a monk who assassinated an anti-Buddhist king in the 9th century.
He hid a bow and arrow in the long sleeves of his dance costume, performing a mesmerizing dance to distract the king before striking. When you watch a performance at TIPA, you are watching a reenactment of this historical subterfuge.
8. Naddi View Point
Naddi offers the closest view of the Dhauladhar range, but it is also the gateway to the culture of the Gaddis, the semi nomadic shepherd tribe of Himachal.
If you walk down from the viewpoint into the village, you might spot men wearing the Chola (a loose woollen coat) secured with a Dora (a rope made of sheep wool).
Legend says the Dora is not just a belt, but a spiritual tool given by Shiva to the Gaddis to help them carry heavy loads and rescue lambs from cliffs. It is believed to be a manifestation of the coiled snake around Shiva’s neck.
9. Gyuto Monastery
Famous for its striking yellow building and the Karmapa, Gyuto is a center for Tantric Buddhism.
The monks here practice a unique form of vocal chord singing known as overtone chanting. In Tibetan folklore, this guttural, dual voice sound is the only frequency capable of communicating directly with the wrathful deities (Protectors of Dharma).
It is said that when the Gyuto monks chant in unison, they are not singing, but physically vibrating the atmosphere to create a mandala of sound that wards off evil spirits.
10. Kangra Fort
A short drive from McLeod Ganj takes you to the Kangra Fort, the oldest in India, and the site of a bizarre anatomical legend.
The fort sits on a strip of land that locals believe is the Ear (Karna) of the demon Jalandhara. According to the Puranas, Jalandhara was so large that when Shiva killed him, his body covered the earth. His ear fell here, giving the place its ancient name, Karna-garh.
The fort also holds the legend of 21 treasure wells. It is said that while the British and Mughal invaders found some, many wells remain hidden, protected by a curse that befalls anyone who tries to map the fort's underground tunnels.